Juniper Old Gold: a bright shrub for the garden

The attractive evergreen Old Gold Juniper was bred in 1958. A plant with a compact and spreading crown has become widespread in landscape design. Good frost resistance allows the cultivation of conifers in different climatic conditions.

Juniper Old Gold: a bright shrub for the garden

Variety Summary

  • Color : needles of a golden shade in the fall, in the summer - yellow-green.
  • Height : 1.5-2 m.
  • Crown Diameter : 1 m.
  • Growing regions : a plant with good frost resistance, so you can cultivate it everywhere.
  • Landing feature : Distance between bushes - 0.5-2 m, in a row - 1.5-2 m.
  • Immunity : High frost resistance, good resistance against diseases and pests.
  • Life expectancy : no information.

general characteristics

The full name is Old Gold Pfitzerian Juniper (juniperus media x pfitzeriana old gold). The plant description includes several basic parameters:

  • the crown is round, flattened, with sprawling branches;
  • height varies from 1.5 to 2 m, circumference - 1 m;
  • annual growth is 5 cm long and 15 cm wide;
  • twigs are thin, straight at the tips a little curved;
  • the root system is deep, weakly branched, when landing on downed earth - surface;
  • needles of a golden hue in the fall, in the summer - light green, prickly, trihedral, densely cover the shoots and trunk;
  • coniferous berries are rounded in green, after ripening they turn blue-black with a thick waxy coating, conditionally edible.

A plant with good frost resistance is excellent for cultivation in the south, in the Central, Middle lane. When landing in the Urals, North and Siberia, young specimens must be insulated.

Growing rules

The type of seedling affects the timing of planting:

  • with open roots planted in late April, early May and in late August;
  • Plants purchased in a container or with an earthen lump, you can plant at any time of the year, with the exception of winter.

Selection of planting material

It is better to choose plants aged 2-3 years. They already have a strong root system and a well-developed aerial part, so they better take root after transplanting to a new place.

When choosing, you should pay attention not only to age, but also to the general appearance:

  • uneven color - the presence of yellow, red or black spots on the shoots of needles, as well as mass shedding of needles indicates an unhealthy condition;
  • the bark should be a uniform brown tone, without cracking breaks, nodules and tubercles;
  • if you get a bush with open roots, inspect them for disease damage - rot says about infection;
  • healthy plants with an earthen lump do not contain traces of mold and acidification on the surface;
  • you should not take specimens in which the root neck has sagging and is covered with a coating - they will slowly develop or do not at all take root in a new place.

It is better to buy planting material in a specialized store or nursery, where it is kept in optimally comfortable conditions. In addition, in such retail outlets you can buy a real plant with all varietal characteristics.

Site and soil preparation

Old Gold grows well in areas with access to sunlight. Therefore, it will be preferable to land on the south side of the house, at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the wall, because in shading, it loses decorativeness and slowly develops.

You can plant conifers on any soil - loamy, sandy loam or nutritious chernozem. The main condition is good drainage, high moisture and breathable qualities.

The plant does not like stagnation of moisture

Therefore, when landing on loams, 2-3 buckets of sand or vermiculite are brought in; on loamy sand a couple of buckets of clay are added. Additionally, the plot is sprinkled with humus and peat - 20 kg each. The number of components is calculated on an area of ​​1 m².

The plant loves slightly acidified soil, so the process of deoxidation in the garden is not carried out if its level does not exceed 7 units.

It grows poorly on waterlogged land - the place must be deep, with the passage of groundwater at least 1.5 m.

The best neighbors on the site are undersized shrubs, rhododendrons, azaleas. It is not recommended to plant near fruit, ornamental and deciduous crops with a large and spreading crown. They will create a shade unnecessary for the needles.

Landing technique

Juniper middle Old Gold loves space, when thickening plantings, there is competition between the bushes for moisture and nutrients, as a result of which they grow slowly and look faded.

The optimal distance for group landing is from 0.5 to 2 m, depending on the size. The distance between the rows is 1.5-2 m.

Landing pits are harvested two weeks before the planned move to the site. Their dimensions should be 2-3 times the length and width of the earthen coma, approximately 70x90 cm. Drainage is placed at the bottom of each hole to prevent stagnation of moisture. Use crushed stone, pebbles or brick chips.

Then, half is filled with nutrient mixtures of peat, sand and turf, mixed in proportion - 2: 1: 1.

The roots are lowered without shaking off the earthen coma, then they are sprinkled with the remaining fertile soil, they trample the soil around the trunk, moisten at the rate of one bucket of water per plant. In order to avoid drying out of the soil and roots, mulch with peat or coniferous sawdust.

Basic care

In care, this plant is no different from other varieties of juniper.

In the first two weeks it needs to be protected from sunlight in the afternoon, in order to protect the tender needles from burning. For shelter use burlap or agrofiber.

Watering

Watering should be moderate and frequent, especially in the year of planting.

The first moistening is carried out after 10 days, all subsequent ones - after the soil has dried to a depth of 4-5 cm.

Usually the frequency depends on the season - in a dry summer, at least 4-5 are required for young, and 3 - for adult specimens.

The culture responds positively to periodic irrigation of the crown - after sprinkling, the above-ground part saturated with moisture reveals all the decorativeness. This procedure is also necessary to protect against the invasion of harmful insects.

Spend it at least once a week and only in the evening.

Loosening and mulching

The loosening procedure is necessary to maintain the moisture and breathability of the soil. It is carried out the day after watering. Additionally weed between the rows, weeds are removed. Then make a layer of mulch from peat or coniferous sawdust.

Mulching has two advantages - it prevents the growth of unnecessary vegetation and protects the root system and the earth from drying out.

Fertilizer

To accelerate growth, increase decorativeness and immunity against diseases, this conifer should be fed.

The first meal is carried out in the second year of life in early spring. 30-40 g of nitroammophoska is applied per 1 m² or bushes are shed with Kemira-universal (40 g per 10 l of water).

Fertilizers boost juniper immunity

They are additionally fed with mineral composition, in the fall, a month before the onset of stable cold weather. A solution of 15 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per 10 l of water is used. This fertilizer increases resistance to winter cold and resistance to diseases and parasites.

Juniper Old Gold responds positively to foliar nutrition, which is carried out 2-3 times per season. The crown is irrigated with chelated preparations: Brexil Combi, Quantum or Aminomax-N.

Pruning

This variety does not need a shaping haircut, since it forms a spreading crown with a chaotic arrangement of branches.

Every spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, which protects from harmful insects, diseases and preserves the decorativeness of the tree.

Cut out all twigs damaged by frost, disease and pests, as well as shrunken and broken parts.

In the 10th year of life, you can carry out a slight rejuvenation - cut the branches of the current year by 2-3 cm in length.

To avoid infection for the procedure, use a sterile, sharp object - secateurs or scissors. After trimming, trimmed areas are irrigated with a solution of copper sulfate.

Shelter for the winter

Adult specimens have good frost resistance, so they do not need warming before wintering. A month before the onset of cold weather, the near-stem zone is sprinkled with peat or coniferous sawdust.

Young bushes under three years of age must be insulated, especially if they grow in regions with a cool climate and prolonged harsh winters:

  • first mulch with sawdust or peat soil;
  • then the aerial part is covered with fir spruce, burlap or agrofibre.

Breathable insulation material will provide access to oxygen and prevent the conifer from warming up.

Propagation Features

This variety of juniper can be propagated in two ways, both are considered effective and not laborious.

Cuttings

Harvesting cuttings is carried out in mid-spring. For cutting, an adult plant (5-6 years old) with no signs of disease is suitable.

Cut apical shoots along with a piece of old bark. The lower part is freed from needles and processes, sprayed with any root formation stimulator - Epin or Kornevin, planted in a moist substrate from peat and sand (1: 1).

For successful rooting, deepen by 3-4 cm at an angle of 40-45 °. Then it is watered with settled water, covered with a film or glass and put in a warm place with diffused daylight.

The optimum temperature is 20-23 ° C, humidity is at the level of 65-70%.

Further care for planting is daily ventilation, irrigation after drying of the soil.

If everything is done correctly, in 2-3 months new buds will appear on the cuttings. Then the shelter is removed, they continue to water, remove weeds and gently loosen the soil.

A transplant to an open area is carried out a year and a half after germination in early autumn. Planting scheme is the same as when planting purchased plants.

Layering

The undersized shrub can be propagated using layering.

The procedure for rooting shoots is carried out in spring or autumn. Choose the thickest and longest stalk on the plant, next to it they dig a trench 4-5 cm deep.

The branch is freed from needles and processes, deepened, fixed with brackets, sprinkled with a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1), watered.

With poor care, the plant may become ill

During autumn breeding, a month before the onset of cold weather, an additional soil layer is poured - 5-6 cm to prevent freezing.

In the spring, when the mother bush starts growing, you can begin to dig the cuttings and separate them. A twig is divided into segments so that each has several roots and buds, and is seated separately.

Diseases and Pests

Juniper Old Gold is able to secrete volatile, repelling many pests.

Nevertheless, when planting infected seedlings, not observing the planting pattern and basic care requirements, the plant can be damaged by various infections and parasites.

  1. Rust. Reddish or orange spots in the form of growths on the surface of branches are a sign of the appearance of a fungus. If left untreated, then in a short time it will turn yellow and die. First, the damaged organs are removed to healthy tissue, then the crown is irrigated with Skor, Hom or Ridomil Gold. The same means are used for preventive treatment in early spring and late fall.
  2. Shrinking shoots. Mass yellowing and darkening of needles, twigs with subsequent drying out is caused by a fungal infection. First, the apical part is damaged, after which the fungus spreads to the entire crown of juniper. At an early stage, it is necessary to remove the damaged parts, then spray twice with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture with an interval of a week.
  3. Schütte. Another fungal sore, which leads to baldness of the conifer and its death. Signs - massive yellowing and shedding of needles at the beginning of summer, closer to the end of the season, numerous black or brown spots notice on the surface of shoots and needles. At the advanced stage, the race is removed from the site and burned. At the beginning of the development of sores, the bush can be saved - cut out all damaged parts, treat the crown with Ridomil Gold or Skor twice with a frequency of 5 days.
  4. Spider mite. This insect loves to feast on the juice of young needles, buds, shoots, as a result of which the affected parts turn yellow and dry. Signs of appearance - the presence of a small cobweb in the nodes, on the eyes and needles. For struggle use acaricides - Acttelik, Aktaru.
  5. Aphid. Another pest that quickly destroys young parts on the plant sucks out juices from needles, buds, young growth. With a minor lesion, folk remedies can be used - an ash-soap solution, infusion of tobacco, garlic or hot pepper. At the advanced stage, the crown and the soil around it are sprayed with Angio or Fitoverm.
  6. Mining mole causes considerable harm. Infected bushes grow slowly, the needles turn yellow, crumble, rot begins in the nodal parts. You can exterminate the parasite with the help of Decis.
  7. From scabs sucking juices from the young organs of the conifer, the effective remedy Karbofos will help.

Application in garden design

Due to its unpretentiousness in care, the ability to grow on almost any type of soil and look bright throughout the year, this conifer has received great popularity in landscape design:

  • it is used in single and group plantings, combining with undersized, ornamental-deciduous plants and heather;
  • it looks beautiful in the center of the flowerbed, framed by low-growing, brightly flowering crops;
  • the plant is planted along the alleys, grown for the decor of city parks, rockeries, rock gardens and mixborders;
  • they are readily used for the design of multilevel coniferous compositions from tall, medium and ground cover conifers.

Reviews

Many gardeners love the Old Gold juniper variety and leave only positive feedback about it: it is not afraid of gas contamination, does not need a haircut, tolerates wintering well, therefore, maintenance is minimal.

Many say that the conifer grows well near any ornamental vegetation, easily propagates, and young plants retain all the signs of the mother bush.

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