Autumn currant transplant - technology and features

Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place can be unexpectedly difficult if you do not know a few secrets of gardeners. In order for the bushes to grow splendidly and give a large crop of delicious berries, it is necessary not only to move the plant correctly, but also to take care of it after the procedure.

Autumn currant transplant - technology and features

Autumn Transplant Conditions

In cold regions, transplants are planned for spring, so that the plant has time to adapt in a new place. The movement is carried out at positive temperature, when the ground has thawed a bit, and return frosts are not expected. If the currant has already begun to grow, then it is better to transplant it for the next year.

In warm regions, you can transplant a bush in the fall. The procedures at this time are more energy intensive and require patience.

It is important to choose the right moment to move the bush, otherwise it will “mix up” the seasons and weaken. And this, in turn, will adversely affect the harvest.

The timing

To reduce stress for the shrub and perform the manipulations most painlessly, transplant should:

  • 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost;
  • after the plant juice is completely stopped;
  • after setting stable, cool weather without thaws.

For each region, there are approximate periods of the procedure:

Region / RegionWhen do they startDeadline
Moscow regionOctoberThe beginning of November
Leningrad regionMid septemberThe end of October
Ural, SiberiaEnd of AugustMid september
Southern regionsMid octoberEnd of November

According to the lunar calendar

Planning a currant transplant according to the lunar calendar allows you to increase the rate of rooting in a new place.

The celestial satellite affects not only human biorhythms and tides, but also the sap flow of the bush:

  • The new moon and the next 3 days are considered an unfavorable time for garden work. The juice moves upward, which is good for the ripening of the crop, but bad for the survival rate of the plant.
  • The growing moon has a beneficial effect on the bush. While it is in the sky, you can safely transplant currants.
  • In the full moon, it is recommended to refrain from such procedures. But fertilizer, weeding and disease prevention will go well.
  • With a waning moon, the sap flow is directed to the roots, so do not dig a plant from a past place.

As you can see, the best period for transplantation is considered the time of moon growth. As a last resort, currants are allowed to move to the full moon.

Stages of the procedure

Seat selection

Currant loves sunlight

You can not transplant currants into the first place you like - the further life and the amount of yield that can be obtained from it depends on it. It is worthwhile to look in advance at the ideal site for placing the plant.

Good location options:

  1. Virtually no shadow. Currants, both black and red, love the sun very much. With a lack of direct sunlight, it will feel worse, immunity and resistance to parasitic attacks will decrease. With a large shadow, fungal diseases appear within 14-20 days after transplantation. Therefore, when looking for a place, pay attention to how well it is lit.
  2. Not enough water. The currant root system prefers moderate watering and does not feel well with excessive moisture. With waterlogging of the soil, the roots quickly begin to rot, and with a lack of moisture, they dry out. It is necessary to choose a moderately moist soil.
  3. Between shrubs save from 100 to 200 cm to prevent disease epidemics. Currant for many parasites is a tasty catch. Her foliage is extremely susceptible to fungal diseases, which is why one should refrain from compiling complex compositions with this plant.

Soil preparation

Dig up the soil and disinfect it 2 weeks before transplanting, get rid of the remains of old roots, debris and weeds. For 5-7 days, organic or mineral fertilizers are applied to accelerate the adaptation of the shrub. Gardeners recommend top dressing that guarantees a long-term effect.

The landing pit delves small: depth is from 30 to 40 cm, the landing pattern is 40x50 cm.

Further, the recesses are filled with a nutrient substrate, which can be prepared independently. To do this, mix:

  • humus and compost in equal portions;
  • wood ash or 30 g of potassium sulfate;
  • 40 g of superphosphate.

The substrate is placed in a pit, but not tamped: currants prefer loose soil.

To improve the growth conditions, gardeners recommend digging deeper planting pits and filling them with 5-7 cm of rubble and 15-20 cm of sand.

Bush preparation

You need to make sure that the sap flow is stopped at the bush: all branches should be about the same color and hardness, and there is no foliage on the plant.

Young shrubs are additionally pruned so that they are no more than 45 cm tall. Such a haircut helps the root system to nourish the branches even under changing conditions. For adult currants, pruning is done after moving.

A bush is scanned for diseases and pests. Only a healthy plant can be transplanted, otherwise it will not take root and can infect other plantings.

The moved shrub is watered and after 2-3 hours, it is dug in a diameter of 50-60 cm from the central shoot. To do this, pierce the earth with sharp blades around the circumference to cut the roots, and then carefully dig it up. The more the earthen coma persists, the easier the currant will take root in a new place.


Only healthy plants are transplanted

The root neck is buried by 7-10 cm to further build up the roots and more durable rooting.

Planting for standard and ordinary shrubs is slightly different:

  • Traditional bushes are planted at an angle of 45 ° to the ground. The slope side does not matter. The next season, the currant will give a new shoot and will quickly be heard in breadth, taking root.
  • Stem plants are recommended to be planted vertically so as not to prune the shrub once again in the future.

The root system is covered with earth and spilled abundantly. When exposing the neck and sinking soil, it is necessary to cover it with additional portions of earth.

Additional recommendations

  • Before planting, it is recommended to sipholes of 1-2 liters of water to sufficiently moisten the soil.
  • The division of the bush for its reproduction is not welcome, since it injures the plant. As a result, both parts may not take root.
  • The red variety is worse at moving in the fall than the black.
  • If the currant is weakened, then it is better to replant it in the spring (autumn transplantation is allowed only when the bush is inhibited at the same place of growth).
  • For adults and old bushes, transplanting is more traumatic than for young ones. They need more care and caution when moving.
  • If the plant dropped the foliage earlier than usual, then it is better not to move it this season. After the procedure, it can give new kidneys, which then freeze and fall away. For the health of the bush is a terrible blow.

White, red, burgundy and black berries behave approximately the same. However, it is recommended to move the early varieties in the fall, so that they have time to take root and yield a crop for the next year. For the winter, they must be covered up even if the weather is soft.

Follow-up care

It is not enough to plant a bush; it still needs to be helped to take root and take root in another place. For this:

  1. After the transplant, the shoots of the plant are immediately cut off. Traditionally leave 2/3 of their length. Even if you cut a little more, then next spring the currant will completely increase the cut off part.
  2. Watering is necessary frequent, some gardeners advise to arrange a real “swamp” under the roots of the bush for 1-2 weeks.
  3. As soon as the time of plentiful watering is over, the plant is insulated for the winter. The methods vary: some use mulching and burlap, others showered with compost and fallen leaves. At the same time, currant survival in a new place is good with any method.

A full harvest can be expected next summer, but only subject to agricultural technology.


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